Autumn Pilgrimage Along the Camino: Rainfailed to diminish the charm of the walk
In the picturesque town of San Vicente de La Barquera, nestled along the northern coast of Spain, lies a seafood restaurant named El Bodegon. Known for its generous servings and lively staff, it was one of the destinations on a recent pilgrimage along the Camino del Norte.
The journey began in Santander, Spain, and on Day Five, the Camino del Norte crossed from Cantabria into Asturias, following a cliff path that offered breathtaking views of the coastline, suitable for surfers. The destination for the day was San Vicente de La Barquera, a town famed for its beautiful medieval streets and a well-equipped Museum of Torture.
Jean-Paul Sartre once described Santillana del Mar, another destination on the Camino del Norte, as the most beautiful village in Spain. The town, with its charming cobblestone streets, was a welcome sight after a long day's trek.
The Camino del Norte is not just about the journey, but also about the people. Strangers often share their life stories, creating a sense of solidarity among pilgrims. On this particular journey, the author was accompanied by a group from the "Pilgerstammtisch Hamburg," including Michaela and Fred, experienced pilgrims focusing on routes in Spain, Portugal, France, and Germany.
The trek to San Vicente de La Barquera also offered a visit to Gaudi's Caprice, a light-filled house adorned with emblems of the natural world. Despite the forecast of a thunderstorm at 4pm, the pilgrims decided to have a picnic on the beach at Luana, basking in the sun before the storm.
The author, an agnostic, has a unique tradition of lighting candles, a practice influenced by his grandmother. On this day, he lit a candle for a friend of his son who took his own life.
El Bodegon, the seafood restaurant, was a highlight of the day. The author noticed a lobster tank present in the restaurant after the meal, adding to the freshness of the seafood. Despite forgetting his togs, the author couldn't resist the allure of the beach and went for a dip in the nip.
The Camino del Norte offers a unique blend of natural beauty and spiritual introspection. From the beautiful coastline to the ancient hilltop church of Santa Maria de Los Angeles visited on Day Four, the journey is a testament to the enduring allure of the Camino.
As the sun set over the sea, a tiny old lady approached the author, shaking an asthma inhaler. The author handed over some money, a small act of kindness in the spirit of the Camino del Norte. The journey continued, each day bringing new experiences, new people, and a deeper understanding of the Camino's magic.