Explore the tropical wilderness in opulent style aboard Malaysia's final operative night train.
Hop Aboard the Eastern & Oriental Express: A Sumptuous Rail Voyage Through Malaysia
I stood alone on the open caboose of our train, staring out as we crossed the Strait of Johor, leaving Singapore behind. A rainbow arched over us—brief, but beautiful. As we ventured further into Malaysia, dark clouds gathered, drenching us in a torrent of rain and lightning, washing away the heat, and filling the air with the stench of the strait.
A century ago, traveler and rubber baron Henri Fauconnier described Malaysia as a land where the "sky exults and sheds abundant tears, dark dismal days are unknown." Despite the weather, passengers boarding the Eastern & Oriental Express (or E&O Express) wore smiles, eager to embark on a journey into the heart of the Malayan peninsula.
The Last Sleeper Train in Malaysia
Our itinerary took us through the lush central highlands, to Taman Negara National Park, along the west coast to the colonial outposts of Butterworth and Georgetown on Penang, and back to Singapore in four days. The E&O Express, once a rail route from Singapore to Bangkok, was revived by Belmond in 2024, making it the only sleeper train still operating in Malaysia (the Intercontinental Express runs overnight from the Thai-Malay border to Bangkok).
All Aboard for Luxury and Adventure
The E&O Express offers an unparalleled level of comfort and service, priced at $4,650 (€4,110), considerably higher than the national trains operating on the same tracks. Yet, for those seeking an extraordinary travel experience, it's a price well worth paying.
The wooden-paneled carriages were warm and inviting, with roomy and cozy en-suite compartments, featuring chairs, loungers that convert to beds, marble hand basins, and full-size showers. Each compartment was attended by a delightful cabin steward.
Upon departing, I found myself on the observation deck, where passengers dressed in their finest spent their time in relaxed elegance, sipping drinks and enjoying the passing landscapes.
Delicious Cuisine and Entertaining Evenings
With a focus on mixing local Malaysian cuisines, a touch of Provence, and ample portions, the food aboard the E&O Express did not disappoint. Meals ranged from kimchi niçoise with a crispy udon galette to coconut blancmange with Nyonya chendol for dessert. Entertainment during our journey included a magician, a jazz trio, and a karaoke night in the bar.
Most passengers preferred to gather on the observation deck, where the wind carried away the heat and the scent of sodden roots and woodsmoke.
Exploring Taman Negara National Park
We arrived at Merapoh, where we could explore the region's famous caves, go on a photography scout, or indulge in a riverine spa treatment. I joined a group for some wildlife spotting in Taman Negara National Park. In the dense brush, we searched for elephants, gaur, tapirs, sun bears, and the elusive Malayan tiger, though we only heard the distant calls of gibbons and found elephant prints in the mud.
Historical Georgetown: A Cultural Hub
We continued south, passing Kuala Lumpur's grandiose central railway station, before reaching Butterworth. A chartered ferry carried us to the island of Penang, where we had the morning to explore the colonial quarter of Georgetown. Chauffeur trishaws, three-wheeled pedal-bike taxis, transported us around town, allowing us to admire the local street art that depicted scenes of the island's past.
Georgetown has transformed itself from a colonial center to a thriving cultural and artistic hub. Artists, foodies, and history enthusiasts can find numerous galleries, museums, and culinary classes to immerse themselves in the island's rich heritage.
Eventually, we sailed back to Singapore, reluctantly saying farewell to the magical journey through Malaysia's lush landscapes and vibrant cultures.
The writer was a guest of Belmond's Eastern & Oriental Express.
Go to accessibility shortcuts
Search Terms: luxury, trains, wildlife, food, forests, Singapore
Additional Information:
- History and Significance: The Eastern & Oriental Express (E&O Express) has been in operation since the early 1900s. It offers passengers a glimpse into the Golden Age of travel, featuring luxurious accommodations and personalized service.
- Food: The culinary experience onboard the E&O Express is curated by renowned chefs, including Andre Chiang. The menu features local Malaysian specialties and fine dining options.
- Culture and Natural Encounters: The E&O Express offers stops at Taman Negara National Park for guided excursions, cultural experiences in Georgetown, and other opportunities for travelers to immerse themselves in Malaysia's rich cultural and natural heritage.
- Luxury and Service: The E&O Express emphasizes a personal touch, with thoughtful steward service throughout the journey. This level of hospitality creates a relaxed and luxurious atmosphere for travelers.
- As we ventured further into Malaysia on the Eastern & Oriental Express (E&O Express), we embarked on a journey into the heart of the Malayan peninsula, just like traveler Henri Fauconnier a century ago.
- The E&O Express, the only sleeper train still operating in Malaysia, offers an unparalleled level of comfort and service, with roomy and cozy en-suite compartments, featuring unique touches like marble hand basins and full-size showers.
- Upon departing, passengers spent their time in relaxed elegance on the observation deck, sipping food-and-drink offerings and enjoying the passing landscapes, while seniors dressed in their finest lounged comfortably.
- In Taman Negara National Park, we indulged in a cultural encounter, searching for rare wildlife like the elusive Malayan tiger, and marveled at the national park's lush forests and thriving landscapes, a true testament to the vibrancy of Malaysian lifestyles.