Exploring Cuenca, Spain: Beyond a Quick Trip from Madrid
Hustling through the Spanish mountains aboard a high-speed train, the feisty evening sun kissed the greenery below, beckoning me to the tranquil medieval haven of Cuenca. With Madrid traffic left in the dust, I prepared myself for an adventure, my heart set on immersing in Cuenca's charms for a weekend, part of a thrilling seven-day tour through Spain.
The city, enlisted as a UNESCO World Heritage site, had an air of enchantment with its antique landmarks that made one feel they had stepped back in time. As the stars twinkled and the moon lent a silvery glow, I strolled along the San Pablo bridge, seduced by the allure of simpler times.
Two days later, reluctance filled me as I prepared to bid adieu to this peaceful paradise. From the pastel-hued houses adorning Plaza Mayor to the countless hours spent watching the sunset sprint over the castle ruins, Cuenca was the perfect escape from the hustle and bustle of reality, with its irresistible charm leaving the modern world a distant memory.
Navigating Cuenca, Spain
Arrival in Cuenca was quick and economical, whether you opted for driving or public transit. In just under an hour, you can reach the high-speed station of Cuenca AVE (Fernando Zobel), or the slower, budget-friendly train service leading straight to New Cuenca station.
From the vibrant Fernando Zobel terminal, a €2.15 bus ride or a 30-minute walk would take you easily to the heart of Old Cuenca. A similar time window would cover the brisk 15-minute journey from the Central Cuenca station to Plaza Mayor.
Two cities coexisted in Cuenca, the vibrant New Cuenca lying under the shadows of the historic Old Cuenca. While New Cuenca possessed its appeal, the magic – nay, the very soul – of the city lay nestled amongst the limestone rocks supporting the hanging houses, making it the focal point for our 48-hour itinerary.
I had designed the itinerary with a relaxed pace, but culture vultures, busy bees, and valiant explorers of the local area with a car might find my comprehensive list of things to do in Cuenca and beyond more enticing.
Lodging: Posada San Jose
Choosing accommodation in the right district was vital, and I wholeheartedly suggest opting for lodging within Old Cuenca. The hypnotic ambiance of the sunset and after-dark atmosphere would sweep you off your feet.
I scoured various options and ultimately settled on the charming Posada San Jose, garnering praise for its mesmerizing views. Premium rooms boasting balconies came at a slightly higher price, but I booked a cozy double room with a shared bathroom for a mere €30 per night (December 2018). Sleeping amidst the rich history of this former convent-cum-choirboys' school felt an awesome privilege at this cost.
Stepping into the immaculately clean rooms – if a wee bit dated - one could not help but be charmed by the avante-garde features like crooked wooden beams and creaky staircases, which added to the allure. The marquee attraction, however, was the stunning vistas from the restaurant and balcony - so magnificent, that breakfast or dinner there became an absolute must.
Evening One: Marveling at the hanging houses
Now that my taste buds had been caressed by the food and my appetite for exploration ignited, I ventured out to explore the land. Dazzled by the absence of fellow tourists during my off-season visit, I found myself captivated by Cuenca's allure in the dark.
This European gem perched precariously on limestone cliffs above the rivers Júcar and Huécar, with only a handful of the hanging houses remaining. Entranced by its beauty, I spent the evening admiring the views from the iron San Pablo bridge before cherishing a nightcap in one of the cozy bars on Plaza Mayor, preparing myself for a peaceful night's slumber before sunrise.
Day One in Cuenca, Spain
As dawn approached, I awoke to a breathtaking sunrise unfolding above the mountain, with not a soul in sight. I scampered around the ancient town, eager to find the perfect viewpoint. For an unforgettable sunrise, I highly recommend scaling the castle ruins, their crumbling walls and towering rooftops revealing glorious vistas.
After downing a revitalizing cup of café con leche and breakfast, it was time to plot out this weekend's adventure in Cuenca.
10:30: Casas Colgadas and Abstract Art Gallery
The famous hanging houses, with their antique wooden balconies, stood proudly above the city, but they wouldn't warrant a trip to Cuenca on their own. Once you've captured your prized photos, you can actually venture inside these historic houses when the gallery space opens at 11 a.m.
The art gallery, a deserving occupant of these nostalgic spaces, boasted an impeccable blend of crisp white walls and original features, providing the perfect canvas for the Spanish Abstract Art collection. Even though you cannot explore the hanging balconies, the expansive glass windows offer a glimpse of the coveted rooftops.
12:00: St. Pablo Bridge to Parador de Cuenca
The iconic iron and wooden bridge of St. Pablo has graced the gorge for over a century, allowing travelers to marvel at the awe-inspiring views of the hanging houses. Conveniently located nearby is the Parador de Cuenca, a splendid spot to enjoy some lunch in lavish surroundings.
12:30: Espacio Torner
Adjacent to the 16th-century Parador de Cuenca lies the St Pablo Church, which has received a modern lease on life. Today, it exhibits an eclectic art collection, showcasing the work of local artist Gustavo Torner. While the collection boasts modest numbers, the art is displayed perfectly, and the high ceilings echo the impressive collection.
13:30: Lunch at Parador de Cuenca
For those with deeper pockets, the Parador de Cuenca boasts a long lineage of prestigious hotels, a glittering gem among Spain's myriad historical buildings. Though I did not stay there, the best way to experience the grandeur of the restaurant was as a day-visitor, relishing exquisite cuisine in opulent surroundings.
15:30: Ruins of the Castle of Cuenca
A mere whisper of the Castle of Cuenca remains, a testament to both the city's rich history and fleeting temporary nature. At this site, you can discover a few turrets and jagged remnants of the original wall, encircling the colourfully restored entrance arch and surrounding structure.
Sunset followed by dinner
With the days shorter in winter, I bade the sun farewell and prepared myself for a stunning sunset experienced from the heights of the karst mountains, the unique rock formations ideally suited for prime positioning. From here, I watched as the sun dipped behind the hanging houses and Cuenca, transforming as the lights brought the city to life.
As the sky morphed from breathtaking hues of pink to deep, rich purple, I found myself lost in appreciation, oblivious to the passage of time and snapping countless pictures of the idyllic scene. Returning to the vibrant buildings of Plaza Mayor, I enjoyed a pre-dinner drink before indulging in a sumptuous meal at one of the nearby eateries.
Should you feel inspired, I encourage you to delve into the intricacies of Spanish cuisine, exploring such dishes as Ajo arriero, créme de morceaux, and Pisto Manchego - savored at the esteemed Parador de Cuenca or the friendly Restaurante El Secreto. And if language becomes an obstacle, rest assured that even basic Spanish, complemented by the help of translation tools, will help you navigate Spain's culinary landscape.
Enrichment Data:
General Info:
- To discover lesser-known Spanish cities and towns, seek out recommendations from local resources such as guidebooks, travel blogs, and national tourism offices.[1]
- Visit the websites and social media of local museums, restaurants, and cultural landmarks to stay informed about special events and exhibitions.[1]
- Join Facebook groups dedicated to Spanish travel to meet fellow enthusiasts, seek advice, and discover hidden spots that may not be widely advertised.[1]
Museums and Cultural Offerings:
- Cuenca is home to various museums, such as the Museum of Abstract Art, the Parador de Cuenca, and the Espacio Torner, which exhibit local art and historical artifacts.[1]
- Check out local event calendars for festivals, exhibitions, and other cultural offerings, such as the festivities surrounding Holy Week, Semana Santa.[1]
[1] - Data obtained from Rick Steves' Spain 2019.
Travelling to Cuenca, Spain can be a quick and economical journey, whether you prefer driving or public transportation. In under an hour, you can reach the high-speed station of Cuenca AVE (Fernando Zobel) or the budget-friendly train service leading to New Cuenca station. From the vibrant Fernando Zobel terminal, a short bus ride or a 30-minute walk will take you to the heart of Old Cuenca.
Immersing in the charm of Cuenca, I found it enthralling to explore the city's cultural and historical landmarks during my stay. One such destinations was the Casas Colgadas and Abstract Art Gallery, where I marveled at the Spanish Abstract Art collection housed in the antique wooden structures. Entering them felt like stepping back in time and offered a unique perspective of the hanging balconies and rooftops.
