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Investigating the Sober Side of Europe's Allegedly Booze-Laden City, Prague: A Fresh Perspective
The group of lads across from me were hollering, "Four beers... each!" as we sat 10,000 meters above ground, bound for the rowdy city of Prague. I wasn't surprised—Prague's reputation for wild stag parties, cheap drinks, and an Amsterdam-like 'alco tourism' is no secret. But the cheap flights were calling, and my travel itch couldn't be ignored.
I landed in this, the stag do capital of Europe, ready to have a blast sans alcohol. I chose to stay in Anděl, a bustling neighborhood in Smíchov. It may not be a hidden gem, what with its plethora of hotels, eateries, and easily accessible public transit, but it's far enough from the old town to keep the throngs of partygoers in their fancy costumes at bay.
Nutria Hunting on the Vltava River
My first day in Prague started early, with a walk along the riverbank. I wanted to snap a picture of the iconic Dancing House before grabbing a coffee, and I also had a particular mission: to spot the TikTok-famous nutria. These distant capybara cousins have caused a stir in recent months, often mistaken for beavers.
Although I didn't come to the river for a cup of joe, A(void) café was the perfect pitstop, boasting stunning river views from its round glass door. Unfortunately, the gimmick felt a bit excessive—but I wasn't there for ambiance.
I set out early to catch glimpses of the seldom-seen nutria. Though you're not supposed to feed or touch these aggressive critters, I wanted to get a good look at them from a safe distance. If you head to 'Nutria Lake' on your map, you'll have a better chance of spotting them, but don't expect them to stick around as the day wears on.
Prague's Vibrant Art Scene
After filling my phone's gallery with photos of Nutty (the nutria I named), I ventured into the heart of the Old Town, its Gothic architecture, cobbled alleys, and souvenir shops beckoning to me. I strolled past the Touristy Astronomical Clock, which disappointingly fails to live up to its hype.
Below the dark spikes of the Church of Our Lady before Týn is the Central Gallery. Here, you can find exhibits from art legends like Warhol, Dali, and Mucha. I spent my time on Dali's floor, marveling at the surrealist tendencies that would make even Salvador himself proud. I left with a souvenir from the gift shop and a new appreciation for art, despite my initial naivety.
The next stop on my itinerary was a retrospective exhibition showcasing the candid and dynamic work of Libuše Jarcovjáková. At 72, this groundbreaking photographer found herself on Vogue's 2025 'Most Influential Women' list. The exhibition was a breathtaking journey through Libuše's life, touching on her experiences as a queer individual in communist Prague, her travels to Japan, and the integration of Cuban immigrants in Czechia.
Tears filled my eyes as the exhibition concluded with a collage of photos depicting her mother's final days on earth. The profound emotional impact of this experience stayed with me long after I'd left the gallery.
A Culinary Adventure at La Degustation
Having survived on gingerbread for days, I was craving a real meal. I decided to splurge on a tasting menu at La Degustation, Prague's first *Michelin-starred* restaurant. To my delight, they offered a non-alcoholic drink pairing.
Imagine my surprise when I found myself alone in the restaurant, a rare occurrence for a place of such high renown. Every dish that graced my table was a masterpiece, from the delicate salsify with egg to the vibrant roasted beetroot with edible flowers. The entire meal was a delight for the senses, and the homemade grape soda that ended the meal was nothing short of heavenly.
Prague: More Than a Party City
Contrary to my initial fears, Prague was surprisingly free of the unruly stag parties I had expected. Last year, the country even banned organized bar crawls from 10pm to 6am in an effort to attract more refined tourists.
While this news might not be music to the ears of disorderly Brits who enjoy coating the city streets in vomit, attitudes towards alcohol in Prague are shifting. Ditching its booze-centric reputation could help Prague attract a younger, more culture-focused crowd.
*Libuše Jarcovjáková's exhibition at the National Gallery ran from 27 September - 31 March. The Poe performance is slated to return on 5 June.
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- Wildlife
- Museum
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- Michelin Guide
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Note: Keep an eye out for nutria sightings in quieter areas like Kampa Island or Stromovka Park, but remember to respect the animals from a safe distance.
[1] Quadrio Prague
[2] Spotted by Locals - Art in Prague
[3] Museum Kampa
[4] Kunsthalle Praha
[5] Street Art Prague Tour
- In the heart of Prague, the Central Gallery showcases exhibits from renowned artists like Warhol, Dali, and the locally acclaimed Libuše Jarcovjáková, offering a glimpse into the vibrant art scene of Czechia.
- Away from the city's party district, the neighborhood of Anděl in Smíchov offers a more refined lifestyle, with its abundance of hotels, eateries, and accessible public transit, making it an attractive home base for those seeking a different side of Prague.
- Liam, wary of Prague's wild stag party reputation, opted for a booze-free trip and found solace in Prague's culinary scene, particularly the non-alcoholic drink pairing at La Degustation, Prague's first Michelin-starred restaurant.
- Following a tasty food-and-drink adventure, Liam explored Prague's general news, discovering that the city has been making strides to shift away from its alco tourism image, courting a younger, more culture-conscious crowd.
- As Liam continues to delve deeper into the city, he discovers various entertainment options, from sustainable experiences to wildlife sightings in Kampa Island or Stromovka Park, ensuring that Prague offers something for everyone.
