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Majestic snow leopard lounging on a lichen-encrusted boulder within Hemis National Park, Ladakh.

Experience the elusive snow leopards in northeast Ladakh - India's extraordinary wildlife is as diverse as its expansive subcontinent. Get ready for an unconventional safari as you equip yourself with binoculars and embark on this thrilling wildlife adventure.

Big cat lounging atop a rock blanketed in mossy lichen within the Hemis National Park, Ladakh.
Big cat lounging atop a rock blanketed in mossy lichen within the Hemis National Park, Ladakh.

Majestic snow leopard lounging on a lichen-encrusted boulder within Hemis National Park, Ladakh.

In the heart of Ladakh's plateaus, a small group of British travellers, local guides, and a naturalist embarked on an exhilarating quest in Hemis National Park. This veritable haven for snow leopards, home to approximately 300 of these elusive creatures, offered a perfect setting for their search.

The group's camp, nestled beside a frozen river, was a circle of bell tents and two canvas pavilions. Each day, they rose early, setting up tripods to scan the landscape for the snow leopard. Their efforts were rewarded on several occasions.

Dorje, the spotter, was the first to spot a snow leopard. Its pale pelage, clouded by dark rosettes, blended seamlessly with the rocky terrain. The sighting sent a thrill through the group as they watched the powerful predator stalk across the slope, displaying raw power and terrifying speeds.

Another snow leopard was sighted on their penultimate day, with Dorje's excited cries of 'Duk! Duk! Duk!' echoing through the park. The group also encountered a herd of blue sheep, the favorite meal of snow leopards, adding to the excitement.

The region, however, is vulnerable to climate change, with rising temperatures threatening its ancient cultures and wildlife. Despite this, the group discovered ancient artifacts during their hikes, including stupas, petroglyphs, and fossils, offering a glimpse into the region's rich history.

The group's camp was not just a base for their expeditions, but also a haven for local wildlife. A shaggy domestic yak named Denzel was a regular visitor, hopeful for scraps. Tragically, Denzel was found dead in the center of the camp the next morning, with a trail of half-chomped carrots leading back to the collapsed kitchen tent.

Speculation about Denzel's demise ran rampant. Sujan, the guide, theorised that it could have been a midnight feast gone awry, rather than a snow leopard attack. Regardless, the group continued their search, their spirits undeterred.

The Wildlife Trust of India collaborated in the search for snow leopards in Hemis National Park, contributing to the conservation efforts of these magnificent creatures. The group's adventures were not just about sightings, but also about respecting and preserving the delicate balance of the Himalayan ecosystem.

As the sun set, the group would gather around a fire, the sacred Buddhist invocation 'Om mani padme hum' being chanted for the protection and good fortune of a high-altitude Himalayan pass. The day's adventures would be recounted, the anticipation for the next day's discoveries building.

This article was produced by Traveller (UK), offering a glimpse into the thrilling world of snow leopard sightings and ancient discoveries in Hemis National Park.

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