Savor the Enigma: Unveiling Itbayat Island, Batanes' Hidden Treasure
Off-the-grid Itbayat safeguarded via communal tourism initiatives
Listen, buddy: Batanes ain't your run-of-the-mill beach vacay spot. It's downright remote, like flipping a switch and finding yourself in the middle of nowhere.
Sat nav 160 kilometers north of Luzon and smack dab in the Philippine Sea, this secluded province doesn't cater to tourism convenience-it's gotta be earned. Boats don't ship passengers, only cargo. Flights are scarce, and with the weather being as moody as a cat on a hot tin roof, cancellations are a norm.
But that's all part of the draw: a rare, untouched haven, and for those brave enough to make their way here, Itbayat Island delivers a one-of-kind experience. Most tourists stick to Batan, home to Basco, the provincial capital, but Itbayat, the third inhabitants' island, is where the real mystery lies.
Reaching the Unreachable
Tourism in Batanes remains a rarity with just over 13,000 travelers in 2024, averaging 35 per day. Only about 10% venture to Itbayat, the northernmost inhabited island, with uninhabited islands like Siayan, Mavulis, and Y'ami waiting beyond it.
Accessing this gem is as exciting as the destination: a three-hour boat ride across tumultuous seas or a seven-minute small plane ride at a hefty P3,000 cost. Many skip Itbayat due to the nausea-inducing boat trip or the risky small plane ride, leaving it seemingly secret.
The Spanish colonial influence touched Itbayat in 1855 with the establishment of a canonical mission. Under American rule, Itbayat became a municipal district in 1909 and a full municipality in 1935. But the island, like the rest of Batanes, lies in a zone frequently plagued by natural disasters, including typhoons and earthquakes.
Geographic Isolation
In 2019, a magnitude 6.0 quake severely damaged many traditional stone houses and the historic Santa Maria de Mayan Church on Itbayat. Yet, the island's resilience remained unwavering.
Government agencies have recognized Batanes' exceptional landscapes and the province's vulnerabilities, focusing on fortifying defenses against natural disasters while integrating climate-friendly practices into its tourism strategy.
This emphasis on resilience and sustainable tourism is crucial for remote geographical areas like Itbayat. In a first post-pandemic move, the Tourism Promotions Board (TPB) of the Philippines hosted a two-day workshop on Itbayat, empowering communities through community-based tourism, emphasizing this very idea.
Natural Wonders Await
Our group, composed of journalists, had the chance to explore Itbayat Island, traversing a landscape sculpted like the Philippine Sea's waves, shaped by rugged limestone peaks, sweeping grassy hills, and assorted cliffs.
Unlike Batan, which attracts the masses, Itbayat remains a secret for most. Its hidden treasures, scattered historical sites, and archeological findings speak of an Austronesian influence dating back thousands of years.
Archeological excavations have unearthed intriguing Austronesian artifacts, including an ancient burial mound named Axurud, said to house the remains of an entire family. The tomb's design reflects the belief that the spirit returns to the sea upon death.
As you voyage through Itbayat's untouched corners, you can't help but ponder the island's past and wonder who settled it first. The Negritos, who migrated from Borneo, or the Austronesians whose presence is more concretely supported by archaeological evidence—the answer is still a fervent discussion.
Mauyen Cliff may be the showstealer, but Itbayat still has more tales to tell, like Torongan Cliff, whose ancient burial mounds offer fascinating glimpses into Philippine prehistory.
Batanes remains underdeveloped in terms of tourism, but educated travelers dream of pristine and untouched destinations, of which Itbayat is no exception. With responsible tourism, thoughtful exploration, and preservation efforts, Itbayat's mystery will continue to intrigue and amaze.
A visit to Itbayat Island in Batanes offers a unique lifestyle experience, immersing travelers in untouched landscapes and hidden treasures, like the Austronesian burial mound called Axurud. Despite the challenges of reaching this remote destination, the allure of a mysterious and untouched lifestyle, combined with the island's natural wonders, draws travelers seeking pristine, untouched destinations.
